2014 Far Niete - Chardonnay

2014 Far Niente - Chardonnay

Napa Valley (California)

Retail:  $50 - $67

Director of Winemaking: Dirk Hampson

Winemaker: Nicole Marchesi

 

I heard of Nickel and Nickel Vineyards and while shopping one day I noticed that they make Far Niente wines. Given the price, I purchased a bottle of Far Niente for a special occasion.  We were invited over to celebrate our 27th wedding anniversary also a dear friend’s birthday so I brought along a bottle to share.  I quietly went to the bar and opened it.  Once someone saw the bottle, it was like moths to a front door porch light being turned on in the darkest night!  Smiles all around and glasses extended outwards to be filled! I knew quickly that I picked a winner.  I was lucky I absconded with the bottle before it was gone so I could write this review.

 

Does the wine live up to the great reaction from our friends?  This Chardonnay is from grapes that were first harvested in 1979 in Oakville, California.  The wine is a bright light gold color that is nice for a Chadonnay and the wine is filtered.  The first aromas or the nose is of floral, citrus, cedar and honey.  I found a scent of rose, peach, lemon and caramelized honey all blended together. 

 

The bouquet of the wine is clean and fresh.  There are no fermentation smells and some woodsy element that is likely from barrel aging in 58% new French oak and 42% once used oak.  To note that we think nearly 60% new French oak and only using barrels one other time brings the wine a creaminess and richness.  We should mention that using this combination of barrels is expensive and as you can see worthwhile.  The winemaker uses sur lie method of fermenting the wine for ten months to remove tannins, add complexity and creaminess to the wine.

 

The body of this wine is a medium body wine that I found powerful in the front and mid palate, making this wine a heavy hitter of taste enjoyment.  The legs or tears on the side of the glass after swishing the wine is slow which means to us a higher amount of alcohol (14.3%).

 

The wine has excellent balance and complexity.  We found there to be citrus fruit of peaches and freshness of green melon.  The vintner’s tasting notes say the wine “opens with light tropical aromas alongside melon, juicy citrus and a layer of toasted oak and mineral.”  Perhaps it was me but I found cedar wood flavoring.  The alcohol feel of the wine was hot and we think it has a high acidity due to no malolactic fermentation.  The Chardonnay grapes have some natural acidity that gives the wine a refreshing tartness.

 

We like to talk about how long a wine lingers, and this one to us lasted a wonderful full 25 seconds.  This is what you should expect from a heavy hitter complex wine.  Overall, and excellent wine.  I am happy to say that we too will be like moths to a light when we see a bottle of 2014 Far Niente Chardonnay being opened!

 

http://farniente.com/wines-vineyards/napa-valley-chardonnay/

 

Number of cases:  Not disclosed

 

Food pairing:  Crab cakes, steak, Caribbean food with fruit sauces, grilled veal, hazel nut crusted chicken, and Cheddar cheese.  Please avoid Thai and tomato based sauces.

 

Vineyard source:  100% estate

 

Vineyard certification:   Not disclosed

 

Harvest dates:  August 21 – September 26, 2014. “Early harvest with beautiful, warm weather that allowed steady, even ripening”.

 

Vintage notes:  According to winery website, depending on the bottle size and with proper cellaring, Far Niente Chardonnay can be enjoyed for 5-to-10 years beyond the vintage date.

Tasting notes:  The 2014 Far Niente Chardonnay opens with light tropical aromas alongside melon, juicy citrus and a layer of toasted oak and mineral. The silky entry introduces bright melon and citrus notes complementary to the nose, then progresses to a creamy, structured midpalate. The long, mouthwatering finish has bright acidity with lingering citrus, toasted nuts and wet stone flavors.

 

Yeast: Not disclosed

 

Fermentation: No malolactic fermentation

 

 

Alcohol:  14.3%

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2013 Black Stallion Estate Winery - Cabernet Sauvignon

2013 Black Stallion Estate Winery – Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley (California – Oak Knoll District)

Retail:  $28

Winemaker: Ralf Holdenried

Director of Public Relations:  Kylie Barnett

 

We obtained a bottle of this Cabernet Sauvignon after seeing it win a Platinum award at the May 2016 San Diego International Wine and Spirits Competition. 

 

The wine color was a deep garnet that was semi-transparent.  The first aroma from this wine was woodsy and heavy blackberries that we think make a great combination.  The nose of the wine drew in our attention that there is something more about this wine; the aromas are distinguishable. The winemaker says the wine’s aroma are “balanced with vibrant aromas of blackberry, plum, vanilla and toasted oak.”  There were no fermentation smells and a fine quality notes of oak from the 80% French oak barrel / 20% American oak barrel aging. 

 

The body of this Cabernet Sauvignon is supple.  It is a full body California Cabernet that we truly expect.  Nothing is let down by this wine.  Due to the higher alcohol (14.5%), the legs or tears on the glass were slow and thick. 

 

The taste was smooth and balanced.  We sensed currants, raisins and dark fruit.  The wine touched all three parts of the mouth and is a testament to its good structure.  The winery talks about this vintage Cabernet has “concentrated flavors of rich cassis, plum and dark chocolate [that] unfold gracefully across the palate with well-integrated fruit and tannins.”  The tannins were rounded and polished which is likely due to only 35% of the 16 month barrel aging is in new barrels.  The alcohol feel was warm and satisfying.  We thought the wine was much more than pleasant, it was enjoyable.  The finish of the wine was quite good and it lasted about 25 seconds afterwards.  We can appreciate the wine and understand the Platinum award it received.

 

www.blackstallionwinery.com    

 

32,000 cases produced

 

Food pairing:  Beef Short Ribs, Beef Stew with Mushrooms, Shallots and Potatoes, Beef Stroganoff with Tomotoes, Brie Cheese, Beef Tacos and Burritos, Cheddar Cheese (mild to medium), Dark Chocolate, French Bread, Irish Stew, Lamb, Roast Beef, and Veal Venison

  

Harvest dates:  September to October 2013

 

Vintage notes:   “The 2013 vintage picked up right where 2012 left off with another exceptional growing season. A warm, dry spring and early bud break was followed by a long, sunny summer with consistent moderate temperatures. Dry conditions prevailed throughout the season due to the absence of any significant precipitation. Cooperative weather, healthy vines and even ripening jumpstarted one of the earliest harvests in recent history resulting in rich, vibrant and balanced Cabernet Sauvignon.”

 

Yeast: Not disclosed

 

Alcohol: 14.5%

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2013 Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Blanc

Joseph Phelps – 2013 Sauvignon Blanc

Napa Valley - St. Helena, California

Retail: $32

Winemaker: Ashley Hepworth

 

We planned a trip to see our son attending Berkeley and threw in a couple days in Napa Valley.  One of the places nearly everyone we talked to said was to visit Joseph Phelps Vineyards.  The beckon call was to try the Insignia Cabernet Sauvignon.  We scheduled an appointment at 10:30 am on a Sunday morning and had the place pretty much to ourselves.  The tasting room was on the patio in between some temporary buildings.  We didn’t mind much because it was absolutely perfect start of our day and it was nice to be outside enjoying the views.  The old barn on top of the hill was under renovation and is now the tasting room.  Go to their website and see the extensive woodwork, wonderful layout and great view.  We knew we have to someday return, and we will.  As we were novice wine drinkers, we adventured outside our comfort zone to try several premium wines.  We liked them all!  At the end of the visit, we chose to buy a bottle of 2013 Sauvignon Blanc because it was as I recall, it was clean, fresh and not a Chardonnay.  I thought it is a wine that many of my friends would love to try.  Frankly, the real reason my wife would say that the Sauvignon Blanc was that good despite being more expensive than what we ever spent on a white wine before, but was much less than the reds we were tasting.   

 

So now jump forward two years to today.  We are looking at our white wines that are aging and want to drink them while they are still “ready” and not “declining”.  That would be a waste and we can’t have that.   Hours before our Friday afternoon wine tasting, we were anxious to retry this wine.  Will it live up to our memory or will it be better?  My wife and I have different tastes and different wine description abilities but we reached the same conclusion once before, will we again?  Well, lighting struck twice.  

 

For the past two years we stored the wine in a cooler at 59 degrees.  Using a proper wine glass for Sauvignon Blanc, we found the wine’s appearance to be a bright straw color.  Holding up the glass with a white background and black text, the wine was transparently clear so that you could readily read the lettering in the background.  We expect a Sauvignon Blanc to have a high degree of purity.

 

We both took in the primary aroma of the wine being a Sauvignon Blanc.  We like to play the game of not disclosing the type of wine to see if the wine smells like the primary grape varietal.   This wine being a Sauvignon Blanc, it is cleaner, crisper than a Chardonnay.  The wine is has an excellent complex first aroma.  As Napa Valley is a warmer climate it has a richer aroma and may be also likely due to aging the wine in 35% new French oak and the remaining in one to three year French oak puncheons (large oak casks) and barrels, the wine a touch of a toast aroma.  

 

According to the Joseph Phelps website, the 2013 “shows bright Mandarin orange blossom, lemon curd, citrus and honey aromas. Full, ripe flavors of Meyer lemon, pear, honeydew melon and vanilla cream fill the mouth with a streak of minerality through to the nicely balanced long citrus finish.”   The Wine Enthusiast reviewer Virginie Boone in February 2014 gave the wine a slightly different review by saying it is “(f)loral and exotic, the tingling acidity in this wine is the standout, but it’s equally buoyed by a mouth-filling texture adorned by a sensation of fresh-squeezed lime and grapefruit.”  Our tasting of the wine yielded lemon, citrus and honey notes which is more in line with the winery’s notes (we did not know the winery’s notes until after we tasted the wine).

 

The mouth feel or weight of the wine was creamy and supple.  The balance of the wine was unmistakenable and it has a complex structure to it with the different flavors.  I look for the tears or legs of a wine on the inside surface of the glass that indicates the amount of alcohol in a wine.  I judged the thin, quickly receding tears to mean a lower alcohol level but not at all close to being flat or flabby.  The aftertaste was most pleasant and while not lingering, it was long enough to enjoy for almost 20 seconds which is quite good.  

 

We tasted the wine by itself and then sampled it with two different pasta salads.  One salad was a Mediterranean salad with Mozzarella cheese and the other an Italian pasta salad with vegetables.  We think this 2013 Sauvignon Blanc is a perfectly wonderful “cocktail” wine that stands by itself and also can be a “food” wine.  If you want to have food with it, the wine makes the food tastes better rather than the food making the wine taste better.  You don’t have to worry about being hit by lighting twice to enjoy a great wine such this Sauvignon Blanc, it not only meet our first expectations, it went clear past them.  It is extraordinary.  

 

www.josephphelps.com

 

Food pairing:  Salmon, tuna, trout, shellfish and most vegetarian. Fresh-tasting dishes with avocados, tomatoes, green onions, olives and sharp cheeses like feta.  Avoid lemon flavored dressings and oils so as not to conflict with the wine.  

 

Vineyard source: 100% estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc from Spring Valley Home Ranch Vineyard

 

Vineyard certification: Not applicable

 

Harvest dates: August 14, 2013 to August 29, 2013

 

Vintage notes: “Lower than normal rainfall paired with moderate spring weather brought with it early bud break and bloom. Sunny skies throughout the summer months led to earlier veraison and set the stage for an early harvest. Warm daytime and cool night temperatures leading up to harvest created evenly ripened fruit with ideal hang time throughout (their) estate vineyard”.

 

Yeast: Not disclosed

 

Fermentation: Not disclosed

 

Alcohol: 13.5

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2013 Baileyana El Gordo - Chardonnay

Baileyana Winery – 2013 El Gordo (Chardonnay)

Retail $33

Winemaker Christian Roguenant

 

My wife Janet and I found Baileyana Winery while our daughter was in college at Cal Poly San Luis Obisbpo.  We purchased a whole bunch of red wine for the kitchen remodel and had nearly no white wines.  I think we bought 100 bottles of wine and 2 bottles of white!  We found out that Baileyana Winery has really great white wines so we stopped into their old schoolhouse tasting room.  My wife, daughter and father in law are teachers so a 1909 schoolhouse was a good starting point.  Within a couple minutes of sampling white wines, we signed up for the wine club.  

 

Baileyana Winery makes El Gordo Chardonnay from grapes grown in the Edna Valley (Central California coast).  The Edna Valley has one of California’s longest growing seasons due to morning fog then sunshine and cool breezes from the Pacific Ocean.  Jack Niven from Baileyana has been growing grapes in Edna Valley since 1973.  Baileyana is one of six labels under Niven Family Wine Estates. You can find Baileyana, True Myth, Tangent, Trenza, Zocker and Cadre labels at www.nivenfamilywines.com. 

 

Winemaker Christian Roguenant believes the wine should have a “Big toasted oak, marshmallow, pear, pineapple, and buttery aromas.”  He goes on to say that the wine has a rich, creamy mouthfeel with flavors of dried apricot, vanilla and a touch of nuttiness. This golden hued and full bodied wine has an oaky sweetness with smooth, silky tannins. Flavors of honey and vanilla are prevalent throughout the wine as well as on the finish.“  

 

Personally, I think the wine is a bright straw color with aromas of pineapple and salted butter.  It is indeed a full bodied wine that has a detectable pear flavor.  The wine was fermented for seven months in 50% new French barrels which gives the wine a strong oak taste that just overpowers the fruity flavors.  I think the wine is slightly out of balance but I like this Chardonnay because it is out of balance.  I agree with the winemaker that the El Gordo Chardonnay has a lingering aftertaste finish.  It lasts for nearly half a minute in the mouth.  It is a good wine to spend time while quietly enjoying a sunset or just appreciating some peace and quiet.

 

Special Note:  Our daughter went to wine taste at Baileyana (04/01/16) and we called ahead to make sure that there was something nice done for her and her guest.  The tasting room staff was very accommodating and made sure it was a surprise.  I did not disclose to them that I wrote this review until after my daughter’s visit.

 

Food pairing:  Salmon, tuna or vegetarian.

Vineyard source: Select blocks from Paragon Vineyard

Vineyard certification: SIP Certified Sustainable since 2008

Harvest dates: 10/8/13- 10/9/13

Yeast: CY3079 (“Steady, slow fermenter even at cooler temperatures… good alcohol tolerance and low production of VA (volatile acidity) and H2S (hydrogen sulfide) when properly fed. Highly recommended for barrel-fermented and sur lie aged Chardonnay. Autolyzes quickly at the end of fermentation. It is thought to enhance aromas such as fresh butter, honey, flowers and pineapple.”) www.scottlab.com/product-50.aspx 

Fermentation: Fermented on 25% new French oak for 22 days

Alcohol: 14.4% - High

420 cases produced

 

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2012 Schug Estate Pinot Noir

2012 Schug Estate Pinot Noir

Carneros (California)

Retail:  $45

Winemaster Emeritus:  Walter Schug

Winemaker:  Michael Cox

 

This wine review became more of a winemaker history as we researched the wine.  The history and different approach to winemaking by Schug Vineyards is worth exploring.  We believe that a wine is as good as it is because of the grapes, the appellation and the winemaker combined.  This wine has all three!

 

Schug Estate has been in Carneros since 1989 but the winemaking experience has been around for over 60 years.  You will be surprised to find out what a remarkable winemaker Walter Schug is.  Walter Schug moved to California in 1959 from Germany where he was a winemaker in Germany. He studied two years at UC Davis and began working in the wine industry.  He got a break in 1966 when Julio Gallo made Walter the Head of Grower Relations and Quality Control for Northern California. The wine tells us that in 1973, Walter was sought out by Joseph Phelps to establish Joseph Phelps Vineyards in Napa Valley.  Walter worked at Joseph Phelps where he oversaw 10 vintages as Vice President and Winemaker.  If that wasn’t enough, Walter had also created California’s first proprietary Bordeaux-Style blend called Insignia (Joseph Phelps), involved in Backus and Eisele Vineyards, introduced the first varietal Syrah in the United States and helped pioneer late harvest dessert wines (Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Scheurebe).  See our review on Hans Wirsching Scheurebe wine for more information.

 

Sometime around 1980, Joseph Phelps ceased production of Pinot Noir thinking there was no significant market for it.  Walter as we are told wanted to continue working with Pinot Noir so he reached an understanding the Joseph Phelps that Walter would continue working for Phelps but Walter could create his own Schug private label.  It took Walter three years to be successful enough to leave Phelps so he could further build his wine brand.  As if Walter is ever done and thinking long term, in 1989 he purchased 50 acres in Carneros (Sonoma County) which they call it “the heart” of the business today.  We have visited, toured and tasted.  Quite a nice winery.  This is the place we learned about why roses are planted at the ends of vineyard rows and large oak casks (800 gallons of vine divine). 

 

Winemaker Michael Cox was kind enough to answer a couple questions we had.  In describing the difference of aging in large oak casks versus barrel, Michael writes, “All red wines at Schug pass through the ovals. Following pressing off the skins wines are racked dirty to the ovals to undergo malolactic fermentation. Once that is complete the reds are racked to small barrels for further ageing. In this manner all wines spend roughly 6-8 weeks in the ovals.  Lots destined for Sonoma Coast Pinot may be returned to oval and are aged until bottling there.  Some white wines (Sonoma Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) are fermented in oval.  They start in stainless steel and then about halfway through the fermentation are moved to oval.  A small barrel is a more oxidative environment and wines there develop more.  Wines aged in ovals retain much of their youthful fruit, but don’t have the body of a barrel aged wine."

 

We had to ask how old are the oak casks to which Michael says “The oldest are close to 50, the youngest under 10.  The casks are neutral on purchase – not toasted in the sense that small barrels are.  They do not have the impact on tannins like a small barrel. We have 12 whites (137-1107 gallons) and 14 red (346 – 1168 gallons) casks.”

 

You’ve read a lot about the winemakers, so “How does the wine taste?”.  The wine has notes of forest woods, pepper and leather.  The lighter bodied medium wine has cherry, blackberry, spice and black pepper on the taste.  The wine hits richly on the front and mid-palate.  The tannins were round and supple.  We thought there was nice acidity that makes this a great food pairing wine as the acidity cuts through the food nicely.  The finish was abbreviated.  The wine overall is smooth and enjoyable that begs you to try more.   I am collecting this Pinot Noir to someday do a vertical wine tasting of several vintages.

 

http://www.schugwinery.com

 

Cases produced: 546 (750 ml) 

 

Food pairing:  Lamb, grilled fish, spare ribs, roast chicken or sausage, roast pork with herbs and fennel, sweetbreads, mushroom risotto, and grilled lobster

 

Vineyard source: 36% Schug Estate Block 8 (Pommard); 32% Block 9 (Pommard);     22% Block 10 (Dijon clone 115); 10% Block 4 (UCD clone 13) 

 

Vineyard certification:   Not disclosed

 

Harvest dates:  September 21th through October 6th, 2012 

 

Vintage notes:  ““Clonal diversity” is achieved by carefully blending several vineyard lots, each retaining its own unique clonal signature in the blend. The result is a complex wine with a rich bouquet of cherries, berries and hints of spicy new oak. It has flavors reminiscent of black cherry, currant and strawberry, followed by a rich, spicy texture and a long silky finish.”

 

Yeast: Not disclosed

 

Fermentation:  Aged 16 months in 21% new and 79% in 1 to 3 year old French oak barrels 

 

Aging: 2 months in 800 gallon oak casks (during malo-lactic fermentation) 9 months in 60 gallon French oak, medium toast barrels (20% new)

 

Alcohol: 14.1% 

 

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History Replanted One Vine at a Time - An Interview with Winemaker Andy Harris - Chuparosa Vineyards (Ramona, CA)

History Replanted One Vine at a Time – An Interview with Winemaker Andy Harris

Chuparosa Vineyards (Ramona, California) www.chuparosavineyards.com

 

Q:  When did you first begin your interest in wine?

A:  About 19 years old.

 

Q:  How does a 19-year-old develop an interest in wine? 

Kids who learn from their parents to appreciate wine are extremely lucky individuals. In my case my parents didn't drink. At 19, I was flying down to a little place called Pope Valley, California from southeast Idaho. It was the only commercial skydiving center in the country at that time. I hated winters. I tried to get out as much as possible.  The next valley over from Pope Valley is Napa Valley. That was back in '70 before Napa was Napa.  Tastings were always free, a lot of dirt roads back then.  They loved to see you come through the door. I wasn't of legal age. They never checked because you're coming over from skydiving. You get a bad weather day you go to the next valley over and you taste wines.

 

One of the first places was Charles Krug Winery. They made a fully dry, Chenin Blanc back then that would just to knock your socks off. Started with the Chenin Blancs and then gradually moved into the reds. In ‘73 or ‘74 I bought a bottle of Stags Leap Cab for $2.75. It's a $140 ($200 per the website) a bottle now.

 

Q: Did you ever work for any wineries in Napa?                                     

I never worked there. In fact, I never worked for any winery other than just volunteer capacity. We did starting in the 90s, both my wife and I, took some courses here in Ramona. There was also a workshop series at Belle Marie Winery.  

 

Q: Did you ever want to start a winery?  

No, I'd like to say we had all this planned out and thought it ahead of time. We just fell into gradually. We bought this property in early 1995. It was an old avocado farm that the lady lost to the bank because of the water bills. We had to pull out all of her avocados. We never had any idea to really to make wine. It was kind of in the back of our minds that it would be fun to grow grapes? It couldn't be that tough, right? A fire came in 2003. It burned up to the back of the garage before we got it turned with the tractor. This whole back area back here was nothing but a cooked off landscape. That's was when we decided well “Hell, let's plant grapes” because I wasn't going to look at the moonscape for 3 or 4 years.

 

Q: Who did you turn to for help?

There's a winemaker up in Temecula Gus Vizgirda (He is now with Wilson Creek). He's helped out a lot of winemakers in this valley. He was an incredible amount of help, solid chemistry background, really solid chemistry background. Knows the difference between large lot and small lot winemaking and some of the pitfalls, just a really good guy to work for, always available. If you got questions you pick up the phone, you call him.  

 

The owner of Stuart Cellars (now under new ownership) used to run up to Napa. He had his own semi because he couldn't get reliable deliveries of wine equipment down this far in the boondocks. He would go up and get his supplies. He would always ask, "Hey, does anybody need anything while I'm going up?" Share the truck type of thing. 

 

There are many others who have assisted over the last several years including Mick Dragoo (Belle Marie Winery), Leon Sobon  in Amador County, Jim Hart, Joe Hart (Jim's father), and many others. In particular there are several winemakers I talked in Tuscany regarding making Brunello and Super T's. They were extremely generous with their time and knowledge. I did visit them in the winter when winemaking/farming duties are less and they had more free time. I also spoke with two winemakers in Australia regarding their handling of the continuing drought conditions. They published a paper on "bare cordon syndrome" that is triggered by multi-year drought. Their solutions work well here in San Diego given the drought and lack of any winter we have experienced over the last 4 years.

 

(Lum Eisenman was also someone that Andy turned to. He was a physicist that helped many of the Ramona Valley winemakers get started)..

  

Q: Why open in Ramona? You didn't buy the property with the idea of opening a winery?

No, we didn't. The research that we did before made the commitment, Carolyn went to a weekend symposium by a winery that no longer exists, that was kind of a cross between an urban winery and a county type winery.  They did a little research back into what this place was a 100-and-some years ago.  The premier industry was premium wine grapes. There was essentially nothing else that was turning the economic wheels at the time. In 1900, this place was exporting premier reds to Europe going head to head with the Bordeauxs.  There was no Napa or Sonoma on the map. Yes, they were growing grapes up there. They were not doing that well in terms of reputation. In terms of output, this place put out a lot of wine a 100 years ago. Two things happened. First thing I think it was sometime in 1912 was the incidence of Pierce’s disease. Took out a bunch of plants from Escondido to El Cajon. It got probably 30% of them. When they started to recover from that then a little thing called the Volstead Act in 1920 came along. The feds came in and said there shall be no more winemaking. Some of the winemakers in San Diego renounced their American citizenship and moved to Guadalupe (Mexico). Now today what's the premier wine growing region in all of Mexico? It's Guadalupe.  

 

Q: You've produced 6 different wines. What's the next focus is on those 6 or are you looking to expand your portfolio?

This winter will be the first year that we produce (a) white wine. It's Albarino. We planted it 3 years ago. We always give it 3 full leaves before we take first crop. You want to establish that root system. We drop crop the first 2 years.

 

Q: Have you won any awards as winemakers?

Carolyn was given San Diego County Farmer of the Year in 2015. She got the one for doing the most to get the wine industry off the ground.  

 

This year we entered 3 wines (in competitions). We entered our Zinfandel in the San Francisco Chronicle. That's 7100 wines. That's where all the big Zinfandels, that I have a whole bunch of respect for, they all enter that competition. We got a silver.

 

Some of my original inspirations Leon Sobon who makes some of the, in my opinion, the best Zins in the world. You try to take and put your wines where there's things that you can get evaluations based on wine which you respect. It's the same thing with the Malbec this year. We entered Malbec in Finger Lake's because there was supposed to be a 100-and-some Malbecs from Mendoza and Cantina there. We got a silver on that. We also entered the Cabernet Franc at Finger Lakes because there was supposed to be a bunch of Cab Francs there. We got double gold on that. There was only, I think, 2 double golds given to Cab Franc. The other one was from a winery in Goliath Israel. If you look at the wear and the growing season in Goliath Israel, and the dryness, and you look at Ramona California, they almost alike.

 

Q: How many hours a week do you devote to being a winemaker versus owner a winery?

Being a farmer? We're slightly different than some of the other operations in the county here. We grow a 100% of our grapes for our wines. That is a big time commitment. I think like old school if you go to Europe. You'll see that the winemakers are always intimately involved in the vineyards. It's only over in this country where the winemaker sits there and waits for the grapes to appear at his door and where the winemaking then commences. I don't agree with that philosophy. You have to be involved in the vineyard. You spend a lot of time farming. That's what I was doing this morning. In terms of time spent wine making it's got to be 1 to 2 days a week. Just chemistry analysis, there's 34 barrels in (our) barrel room. We do a full work up on each barrel every 3 weeks.

 

Q: What are your goals for the winery?

Finish this infinite construction. It would be nice to say, "Hey, I'm done." We have, like any small winery in San Diego County, we have storage issues. I have 1,170 cases right now in storage in Temecula because there's no bonded wine storage in this county. Vesper Vineyards, they're opening a warehouse in Escondido where I think we'll finally be able to get some local storage.  

 

Q: How many people a year visit your winery?

That's a tough number. We're only open weekends, 11 am to 5 pm. We will average about 18 to 22 groups per day. A group can consist of anywhere from 1 to upwards of 10 people. 

I'm running out of inventory so this may be the first year we don’t open the tasting room. It's getting to the point where I cannot, on the acreage we have right now, grow enough to support what's moving through the tasting room. Previous years we've always run out of the Super Tuscan Blend. We always run out of the Cab Franc. We always run out of the Malbec too. Usually the Zin will last mostly until December. Last year, I was a little premature on the lease in the 2011 because the 2010 just was gone, pretty much the same with [Brinella 00:17:21] this year. It's probably going to be a little tighter yet. Our production is pretty even from year to year. We pull right at 10.5 tons off these grapes every single year. That's without the Albarino.  Based on existing plantings we get very evenly about 10.5 tons a year. You'll see it 10.36, 10.45, each year after year. The farming's consistent. I think that's part of what produces a good crop.

 

Q: Do you have the most humorous wine tasting room story or disastrous wine tasting story?

Three people show up, a very attractive young Chinese lady, an older Chinese woman, and an Irish man. I said, "Good afternoon, can I pour you some wines?" They're just kind of looking around. They're not talking, just looking. I ask another way about 10 seconds later. It's an uncomfortable silence. Then the lady, the younger lady, says, "Okay, I think I'd like a taste of wine." As it turns out she's from mainland China. She's over here investigating some other wines because they're not happy with the wines that the French sold them. The French charged premium prices but sold them second-tier wines. They're not real pleased with that. Mom was over here for the wedding (but) also on a buying trip checking out wineries all the way from here up into the Napa Valley. She runs (a) restaurant on the 100th floor of (a) hotel in Xenjing, China. She was over here checking out wineries. How she found Chuparosa Vineyards in Ramona is still a mystery to me. They warmed right up after they started tasting the wines. They ended up spending almost 3 hours here talking wine.

 

Q: Did they buy any?

Oh, yeah. Wonderful people, I can't support shipping anything overseas because I don't have any inventory. That's what they were looking for. They really liked the wines.

 

Q: Who designed your label and what's the story behind it?

My wife’s sister and husband are both graphic arts designers They're really good. (Location 8). I'm an engineer. I know my limitations.  It looks local. These people are really good, gifted, professionals, it's another good reason I didn't even get involved.

 

Q: Do your friends and family think you're either crazy or living the good life?

Check both of the above boxes. "Oh, great you own a winery." You know that the gentlemen farming with your feet up and a glass of wine thing. Then they visit and see what goes on here. Nobody's gentlemen anything, it's hard work.

 

Q: What's the best and worst part of being a winemaker?

I'd say the best part is when you really produce a nice vintage and people instantly appreciate it. It's nice to see people come out to our place that like good, solid foundation, red wines. The worst part is probably dealing with the county and the constant shenanigans that go on over and over and over again and never seem to stop. That's probably the most frustrating part.

 

Q: Which publications do you reach for the latest developments in the wine industry?

The Wine Business Monthly.   Wines and Vines. I find the Wine Business Monthly has the more hard-core technical articles. 

 

Q: In winemaking, what's your biggest obstacle?

Probably the cost of the equipment, getting your process up to where you want it to make the kinds of wines, the styles of wines, and the quality of wines you want to make. It takes equipment. It is not a cheap industry. This is what we call an infrastructure heavy endeavor, like that tank behind you. They don't grow on trees. We have a new press coming this year also. It was not cheap either. It will allow me to do some things that I couldn't do before. The infrastructure is probably the biggest (obstacle).

 

Q: What should people never ask a winemaker? 

The ones I guess that irritate me the most is where do you buy your wine grapes from? That usually sends me right through the roof because we don't buy wine, we make it. We're a 100% estate, not because I had my nose in the air about buying other people's grapes, but we already do 10 1/2 tons a year. It's just my wife and I.  

 

Q: What can somebody do to improve their wine tasting skills?

First and foremost, taste more wine. Secondly, taste it intelligently. Learn to break the wine in your mouth down to it's 3 constituent compounds, the opening, the mid-palette, and the finish. Be able to take apart each piece of the wine in each of those stages. Everyone can learn to taste wine. People can learn to appreciate really good wines if they just learn how to kind of pick it apart. They'll find things they like and thing they don't. Not everybody's going to agree on that because everyone's palate's different. I think the best thing you can do is drink more wine and then learn to drink it intelligently.

 

Q: What has the recent drought done to the quality of your wines?

We are incredible fortunate sitting in this little section of Ramona Valley. What most people don't realize is that within our little valley right here we're at about 94% of normal rainfall.  I'm aware that California is in a severe drought.  In our little neck of the woods, we are not exactly suffering. Secondly, I have a really good well. We do drip irrigate. I like to control the water rather than Mother Nature. I think that's one of the advantages of growing down here, not a disadvantage, because so many time, as you move further up north into the wetter climes, people have good years and bad years based on too much water, too much water at the wrong time, right at harvest, torrential rains at bloom. Those types of things are real headaches for the people who are farming the grapes. We don't have to deal with any of that. I control the water. It's another lever I can use to bring in a better crop to make a better wine with.  

 

Q: Do you stress them out a little bit to get the roots deeper or do you try to keep the moisture more constant?

You can look at it in terms of what you do at the beginning of the plant's life versus what do you do when the plant has entered the production stage. I define the onset of the production stage as leaf on. At the beginning of the plant's life the last thing you want to do is stress it. It's trying to establish itself. It's trying to send down a good root structure that'll carry it for the rest of the life of the plant and give you the crop yields that you're looking for, so no stress at all the first 3 years. When it comes to stressing later on, I have a slightly different philosophy than a lot of people. It's farming, why would you want to stress your plants. If you want a good crop, make the plants happy. This business about stressing it to get greater intensity, no, then you crop down to the point whether your root system will carry the amount of fruit you have on the plant to full sugar and full intensity and the tannins come up properly. If you stress the plant and desiccate the grapes, the sugar levels will come up very quickly because you've desiccated the grapes. That doesn't get you tannin structure. That doesn't get that final maturation of grape.  

 

Q: If you had to start all over would you do anything different?

Yes, if I had to start all over I'd start with a true master plan instead of just getting drug into it step by step. That's much more expensive than a master plan. Secondly, I would have probably begun the build-out process of the infrastructure more quickly. Doing it the other way involves a lot of wheel spinning. When we first planted grapes we didn't ever intend to become a winery, ever. We were just going to grow grapes for a winery across the way. 

 

Q: I know you don't have a favorite wine but is there a wine that you're most pleased with compared where you thought it was going to be and where it ended up? The other way around is if you had to walk into a dinner party and you wanted somebody to taste something that is expressively yours, what wine, which of your wines would that be?

You're right, it is a tough one. We grow what some people refer to as a rather eclectic mix of wines. That eclectic mix came from wines I've run into during my travels across the world particularly Italian wines that I've worked off and on at home. Ones that I liked, I wanted to come back and try to duplicate. I spent a lot of time drinking really nice Zins up in Amador, Lodi, and upper regions of the Alexander Valley. I wanted to bring them back and knock them off. As far as my favorite wine, I've been a Zinfandel drinker since the mid ‘70s. That's not going to change. You've got to be nuts to grow it. It's a finicky crop. It's a difficult crop to make wine out of because it's going to try to pull every trick in the book on you. The most surprising one probably, was the Malbec. Up until 6 years ago, I think, Joe Cullen over at Cactus Star, was the only guy I knew of in the area that had any Malbec. He had just an itty bitty little test plot. We tasted some, I'm going to say 6 - 7 years ago now, and I decided then and there that somebody needed to get some of this stuff in the ground. Since we started taking crop from our Malbec about 3 years ago, others have planted Malbec just because of that.  You will see more varietals of wine grapes planted as time marches on.

 

As young a region as we are there are some really nice wineries here now. I think that's a testimony to the growing region and to the dedication of many people who try to make this come to pass. It has not been easy. It's been a knock down drag out every step of the way. Having said that, we're getting some modest success now. It's nice to see.

 

This interview was edited for length.

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How to Improve Your Wine Tasting Skills

How to improve you wine tasting skills -by Robert Ilko

 

To get better at tasting wines, which I know that I need to constantly improve, there are some easy steps and some fun steps to improve our wine tasting skills.  This article is not about how to judge wines on points but what can people do to enjoy the wine they are drinking more.  To be more knowledgeable.

 

What I hear from wine critics, judges and wine enthusiasts is to drink many different wines as possible.  That is fun and all but is that going to improve your tasting skills?  Not immediately.  Rather than “taste, taste, taste”, I prefer “taste, educate, taste”.  You need reference points to gauge what is one taste and what another taste is.  You need exposure to various smells such as spices, flowers, chemicals, wood, coffee, licorice, fruit, faults, etc.  Some people have a natural ability to taste and smell, for the rest of us, we need to learn.  Both smell and taste changes over time.  Our bodies age or become damaged so our senses do too.  What I liked as a child is not necessarily what I like know except I still roundly dislike cooked spinach.  Sometimes what I had last month for dinner is no longer my favorite.  Wine is like that too.

 

Things to Do:

1. Experiment, learn and make tasting “deposits”:

 

-    Go to the grocery store or spice shop and smell everything.

 

A winemaker, who I don’t remember who (they seem to all blend together over time, get it “blend” together).  He said he goes to the grocery store and he spends an hour just smelling everything from breads to produce.  He tries to make mental notes as he smells an item.  He called it akin to muscle memory.  I like you to think of smelling something and making a deposit into your tasting memory bank for later withdrawals when you need it.

 

-    Know something about the wine, winemaker, winery or area harvested.

 

Before you try a wine, look for information about the winery, the winemaker, when harvested, and the area (appellation) that the wine is made.  Is the winery a large multi-million case producer that gets wines from different locations or is the winery a single source winery?  Is it a blended wine from different grapes or just one grape varietal? Winemakers come in two categories to me. One is the “old timer” that has years of experience and is tried and true.  The other is “young buck” that is willing to learn but try new methods or varietals.  Is the wine from a cold climate or warm climate?  Due to weather and water, were the grapes harvested early or late?  Lastly, what are the special effects of an area on the grapes (think Napa versus Northern New York).

 

2. Taste in the right environment:

-    Be aware of background smells.  

-    Try to avoid wine tasting in a kitchen and near foods (unless you are pairing your wine with your food).

-    No perfumes or heavy deodorants.  

-    I thought this was unusual.  When you are overloaded with aromas? Neutralize your nose by sniffing your forearm.  www.winefolly.com/review/how-to-taste-wine-develop-palate/

 

3. Cleanse your palate before tasting wine:

Mike Dawson from the Wine Enthusiast collected some ways to cleanse your palate from experts.   www.winemag.com/gallery/sommelier-palate-cleansing-tips/ 

- Michael Schachner, Contributing Editor, Wine Enthusiast uses unripen pineapple.

- Joe Czerwinski, Managing Editor, Wine Enthusiast uses a banana followed by water.

- Paul Brady, Manager at Hearth NYC uses a pilsner beer.

- Scott Turnbull, CMS,  Sommelier, Solbar, Calistoga, CA likes tortilla chips. 

- Kevin Zraly, The Windows on the World Complete Wine Course prefers rare beef.

 

Other ways to cleanse your palate are:

- Olives

- Water crackers

- Coffee beans

- Celery

- Room temperature water (but don’t drink much)

 

4. Find more flavors when you taste: 

What can we do when we are tasting wine to help figure out what the flavors are?  According to Madeline Puckette, “try coating your mouth with a larger sip of wine followed by several smaller sips so that you can isolate and pick out flavors. Focus on one flavor at a time. Always be thinking from broad-based flavors to more specific ones, i.e. the general “black fruits” to the more specific, “Dark plum, roasted mulberry, jammy blackberry.” http://winefolly.com/review/how-to-taste-wine-develop-palate/ 

 

Another interesting technique is called “aspirating”.   Vogue food journalist Rachel Signer says “to truly taste wine in a way that educates your palate, you have to slow down and practice something called aspiration: rolling a sip of wine over your tongue and sucking air into it. Does it look weird at first? Sure. But by allowing oxygen to release more of the wine’s flavors, you’ll notice more aspects about how it was made, such as the oakiness or acidity.”  In her research she says consulted with Nick Gorevic, a wine industry professional who believes that “If you want to taste more, you have to practice and think about it with a critical eye.” He goes on to say “Really focus on what’s in your mouth and leave it there for a long time. Let it stay there, aspirate, and chew it around.”  www.vogue.com/13419159/wine-tasting-how-to-train-your-palate/ To aspirate wine for tasting, while you have some wine in your mouth, open your lips only a little bit and inhale just enough to pass air through the wine.  This should really expose the wine to your taste buds and add to your sense of smell. 

 

5. Visit a wine shop with Enomatic machine:

Some wine shops but more wine bars have an Enomatic machine (closed system wine dispenser) that allows you to pour as much as you like from an open bottle.  You can taste a splash or have a whole glass.  You pay by the amount you use.  Typically, you prepay for whatever amount of money you like to spend that is put on a magnetic strip card that you use to tell the machine which wine you want to try.  The one place we went had over a hundred wines to sample.  The environment can be noisy and distracting.  

 

6. Join wine tasting group:

For me it was matter of luck that I happen to bring up my new interest in wine with someone that I thought only drank beer.  It turned out he was the President of a monthly wine tasting group called the San Diego Wine Guild (www.sandiegowineguild.org). I went to their Summer party and couldn't write the membership check fast enough. The guild is the second largest chapter of the American Wine Society (www.americanwinesociety.org).  The wine guild holds a potluck dinner and arranges for a winemaker to come in to talk about 7-8 wines.  A lively social and educational experience.

 

7. Go to charity wine tasting, visit wineries or wine bars and attend wine pairing dinners

 

8. Throw your own wine tasting event:

Buy various wines or invite friends to bring a wine to share.  You will be surprised by how much your friends and neighbors know about wine.  If they don't they may want to join you on your journey of enjoying wine more (or more wine!).

 

9. Ask a restaurant if they have a Sommelier:

When talking with the Sommelier, ask more than which wine to order.  Ask follow up questions about why that particular wine versus another.  Find out how they came to like that wine.  

 

10. Take a sensory analysis class:

Wine consultant and blogger Betty Kaufman says that she took a sensory analysis class at the Culinary Institute of America in Saint Helena. The course was two days where they smelled the first day and tasted the second day.  Betty writes that she “got so much out of the class, I think I could take it many times over and benefit each time!”.  This is something I want to explore myself.  www.bettyswinemusings.com/fine-tuning-your-wine-tasting-skills

 

11. Read books about wines:

Simon Stockton from Sugar and Yeast writes that “reading wine books is an essential part of learning about wine and it's imperative you learn from experts in the field.”  He goes on to say that “it's helpful to absorb the way wine writers/critics describe wines they've tasted so you can emulate this at some stage of your own development”. Here are some of his books that he recommends.  The Champagne Guide by Tyson Stelzer, Why You Like the Wines You Like by Tim Hanni, The Concise Guide to Wine and Blind Tasting by Neel Burton and James Flewellen, and Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz. 

 

12. Buy a wine aroma tasting kit:

Manufacturers make a kit of wine aromas that come in small vials that you can smell.  The object if you make it a game is to see how many you can correctly guess.  They can include red wine and white wine aromas but also faults as to what wine should not smell like. 

 

13. Most important and one that you have done is read wine blogs like this one!

 

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2015 Chateau Bonnet - Bourdeaux (White)

Chateau Bonnet – 2015 Bourdeaux (White)

Entre-deux-Mers

Retail:  $16

Winemaker: André Lurton

Cellar Master: Laurent Le Dez

 

We may have found a nice Summer wine that is simply good by itself.  This wine has a golden color with a slight green hue showing its freshness.  While called a Sauvignon Blanc, it is a mix of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle.  What is Muscadelle (and we had to find out for ourselves)?  It is a sweet grape that is similar to Muscat but not related*.   Muscadelle adds sweet floral notes.  It is used usually in percentages less than 10%.  We noticed that the winery’s website conflicts the bottle label as the website showed the blend to be 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon and 15% Muscadelle.  Unfortunately, we don’t know why the change from 15% to 10%.  We made efforts to reach the winemaker to explain but received no response.

 

The nose of the wine is clearly Sauvignon Blanc.  We found it to reveal citrus and floral notes.  The citrus to us was zesty tangerine and grapefruit.  The floral note was lavender. The winemaker’s notes say that the wine has "succulent aromas of pear and tropical fruit, . . . with a clean finish and well-defined". They also recognize that the wine is “easy to drink”. There was no fermentation smells nor oak aging because the wine was fermented for four months in stainless steel tanks.  The winemaker leaves the wine to ferment with lees and limited skin contact.  

 

The mouth feel is soft but with some grippy tightening as a result.  The legs or tears in the glass were fast which to us indicates a medium amount of alcohol.  The winery’s website doesn’t reveal the alcohol content percentage. The wine is a rich yellow that yields a smooth balance taste.  It is not a complex wine meaning that it doesn’t change in taste from the beginning to the end.  It is a refreshing wine with a fair amount of acidity and a warm alcohol feel.  The wine is dry with some sweetness.  

 

The aftertaste is pleasant and this Sauvignon Blanc has a likeable lingering taste that lasted a solid 20 seconds.  Overall, the wine is ordinary but a good value that you will want to share with others on a warm Summer evening.

 

http://eng.andrelurton.com 

Food pairing:  Fish and seafood

Vineyard source: 

Vineyard certification:  

Harvest dates: 

Vintage notes: “2015 was the third warmest year since 1900. Drought conditions, above-average monthly temperatures and sunshine (in the first half of the year), cool nights and hot weather in August accompanying véraison (colour change) were all ideal for the vines!” http://eng.andrelurton.com/Our-Wines/Our-wines/Chateau-Bonnet-Blanc

Yeast: Not disclosed

Fermentation: Steel tanks. Tartaric precipitation by cold treatment.  After skin- contact and settling, in temperature- controlled stainless- steel tanks

Alcohol: 

* Muscadelle, Vitis International Variety Catalogue

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2012 Chateaux la Tour de Mons - Bordeaux

2012 Chateaux la Tour de Mons – Bordeaux (Merlot blend)

Margaux - left bank

Retail:  $40

Winemaker: Managing Director Thierry Budin

 

For those who know a little about Bourdeuax, this is a left bank Merlot blended wine with 55% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Petit Verdot.  The winery chateau dates back to the 13th Century.  The grapes from this winery are predominately 30 years old with some being planted in 1934 according to the winery’s website.  They produce 12,500 cases of this solid Bourdeaux.  

 

I found the appearance of the wine to be a good example of a Bourdeaux, a deep ruby red that is fully opague.  The purity is excellent and the wine is filtered.  The first aroma of this wine is that of tree fruit of plums and an earthy notes of dusty, vanilla and some cedar.  The aromas are distinguishable for a Merlot blend.  

 

The bouquet is fruit forward of blackberries and plums.  You can taste a pleasant amount of oak which is a result of the 40% new French oak barrel aging.  The wine is aged 12 months. The wine was first vinified on stainless steel tanks.  I believe that the wine is full boded that when tasting is chewy and grippy.  I attribute the body of the wine to the good amount of Cabernet Sauvignon which I prefer as one of my go to varietals.  When you swish the wine in your glass, the legs or tears of alcohol were slightly slow on the cascading descent meaning that there is a fair amount of alcohol (13.5%).  

 

The taste of this wine is smooth with some complexity.  The wine starts in the tip of the tongue with plum and ends in the back of the mouth as blackberries.   The tannins are clearly present and supple.  The alcohol feel was warm which I think complements the suppleness of this wine.  The acidity is low and although not a refreshing wine, it is nice to drink with cheese and meat.  

 

The finish of this wine was pleasant but didn’t last as long as I would have liked.  I measured it to being 15 seconds.  Overall, this is a good example of a Bourdeaux that you can try to get a better sense of what a left bank wine should be.  You can drink this wine now and it should get better with some proper cellaring.

 

http://www.chateau-latourdemons.com

 

Food pairing:  Lamb, most meats, and bleu cheese.

Vineyard source:  Single block vineyard

Vineyard certification: 

Harvest dates: 

Vintage notes:  Low temperature fermentation

Yeast: 

Fermentation: Steel tanks

Alcohol: 13.5%

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2012 Chalk Hill Chardonnay

2012 Chalk Hill Chardonnay 

Sonoma Coast – 100% Estate 

Retail:  $38

Winemaker: Not disclosed

 

The appearance of this Chardonnay is a wonderful light gold.  The wine is filtered and has nice purity and brightness which is what you expect from this grape variety.  The initial aromas are nuttiness and tree fruit.  I smelled toasted almonds and peaches.  The toasted almonds compliment the wine and its flavor is likely from sur lie aging (breakdown of the fermentation yeast added to the barrels).  Chalk Hill makes a distinguishable Chardonnay that is not buttery.  The wine has a creaminess quality.  I detected some oak in this wine which probably comes from the wine being in 40% new French oak barrels for seven months.  

 

The wine has a creamy, front of the mouth feel.  It is a bit less refined than expected.  We found the legs or tears of the wine to be fast moving which normally indicates lower alcohol but this Chardonnay is a full body high alcohol wine with a listed 14.5% alcohol content.  

 

We thought the wine has an acceptable balance and some structure to it.  It starts with a peach taste and ends with hints of pear. We didn’t find the vanilla finish as others did in their reviews of this wine. The winery tasting notes say that the wine drinker should find yellow apple, tropical fruit and toasty vanilla on the nose.  As for taste, there should be traces of guava, golden apples and pears.  We tried the wine at cellar temperature and also after warming up a bit but found no real difference in the aroma or taste.  Our preference was on the chilled side as being better.  The wine had more fruit flavors when colder and as it got warmer the more nut flavors became stronger.

 

We agree that this Chardonnay was full bodied.  The wine has an appropriate dry sweetness to it.  The tannins were thin and the alcohol feel was definitely not flat but not warm either.  We think you will find the wine on the refreshing side because of the creaminess and acidity which makes this a good Summer party wine with appetizers.  The wine unfortunately did not linger very long.  

 

http://www.chalkhill.com

Food pairing:  Cheese pizza, pulled pork, shellfish and scallops.

Vineyard source:  100% estate. Sonoma Coast Chardonnay comes from Foley owned vineyards throughout Sonoma County which they get fruit from Carneros, Chalk Hill, lower Sonoma Valley and the Alexander Valley.

Vineyard certification: 

Harvest dates:  September 18 - October 20, 2012

Vintage notes: 

Yeast: Not disclosed

Fermentation: 

Alcohol: 14.5%

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To Smell or Not to Smell (The Cork)?

To Smell or Not To Smell (The Cork)?

 

A good restaurant today will open a bottle of wine for you and present the cork.  You are afraid to ask why am I seeing the cork?  Historically, premium Bourdeaux wines would be marketed by unscrupulous business people who would put a fake label from a well-respected winemaker on an ordinary bottle of wine.  The Bourdeaux winemakers to protect their wines began to put identifying marks on their wine corks to differentiate their wines from fake bottles.  With advent of computers and improved printers, corks can be faked by almost anyone.  Now a days, winemakers are using corks to promote their websites or brands.  I looked through hundreds or corks recently and one caught my eye from Lazarre Wines.  Winemaker Adam Lazarre is known for liking leopard print so he uses it on his wine corks. 

 

So when then smell the cork today?

 

Inspecting the cork or smelling it may tell you something about the wine.  If the cork is dry and crumbly, then the wine may not have been stored properly thus not the best that it can be.  The wine maybe oxidized.  If the cork is wet but smells like a wet dog or cardboard then the wine may be “corked”.  A possibility a wine is “corked” is due to the presence of TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) or TBA (2,4,6-tribromoanisole) which only applies to natural cork; not synthetic corks.  TCA may be present due to fungus in a wood barrel too.  Both TCA and TBA are harmless to people.  “Corked” wine began occurring recently in modern time as cork was treated with chlorine bleaching but now less frequently due to treating cork with peroxide.  TCA may also be caused by industrial pollutants absorbed by cork trees or when the cork is subject to wood preservatives.

 

 

Winemakers and probably more likely their business partners are pushing synthetic corks due to less cost, easier to print, less complaints and greater availability.  The best way to smell if a wine is “corked” is to have the server pour a small amount of wine in a glass and then smell the wine.  If it is “corked” it will smell less than what you expect like something musty.   Perhaps less than 5% of wine may be “corked” so you are more likely to enjoy a great bottle of wine with your friends and family.  

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